wd-50

50 Clinton Street between Stanton and Rivington Streets
212/477.2900
about $300 for two, with a bottle of wine, with tip
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Wylie Dufresne, how do I love thee? Let me count the ways…

1. Pickled beef tongue with fried mayonnaise and onion streusel. I loved the beef tongue carpaccio style; you can barely remember it was pickled. And fried and cubed mayonnaise? It was worth ordering just to find out how the hell they would do it.

2. Octopus with celery pesto, pineapple and tiny bits of mojama, or dry tuna, and marcona almonds. Celery pesto is something I’ve never had before.

3. Corned duck, rye crisp, purple mustard and horseradish. Our waiter told us this is the mainstay on the wd-50 menu and that it was an absolute must-try. He was right. The mini parsleys were a nice touch.

4. Root vegetable “lasagna” with sweet and sour mushroom broth. I tasted carrots, parsnip and burdock in there. Perhaps beets were not in season. Lasagna is in quotes because the familiar layering technique was used. The mushrooms were a delight to eat, but I wish this came in a smaller portion.

5. Rack of lamb, sauerkraut spaetzle, swiss cheese consommé. We finished a bottle of wine from Piedmont and all I remember about the lamb was that it melted in my mouth. We ordered medium, but it was definitely rare. Divine.

6. Kumquat confit, carob ice cream, or St. John’s Bread, a pea pod that looks like cocoa but without the caffeine, with soy caramel. The kumquat was chewy, but I wondered if it would be any softer if cooked longer.

7. Caramelized banana, smoked chocolate ice cream and stout. I have no clue how one would smoke ice cream, but we paused after every spoonful and asked, Is that bacon I taste?

8. Thin crisps in a wooden box. I had to ask our waiter to take them away because I couldn’t stop picking from it.

A very expensive meal for two, but worth every penny.

Nomad

78 Second Avenue at 4th Street
212/253.5410
about $200 for five, with two bottles of wine, without tip
♥ ♥

Three of us drank two bottles of Algerian red wine while waiting for the rest of our group. When the five of us were complete, we shared two lamb shanks that were so tender, the meat just came off the bones when our forks touched it. Two order of crab cakes were the least African on the menu, yet they were still tasty. I liked their tagine so much I could have eaten one more serving. The seafood pancake was so-so and the chicken kebab tasted like, well, chicken.

We were seated at the front and the breeze would come in every time someone opened the door. We asked to be moved when the back room freed up, but the manager never returned to accommodate us even though they told us they just needed to clean up in the back. Minus that one slip, the waiters were almost unnoticable which could be a good thing when you’re just enjoying the food and the company you’re with.

Pho Bang

157 Mott Street between Broome and Grand Streets
212/966.3797
$20 for two, without drinks, without tip

One of the last Vietnamese restaurants in New York City that’s still not lazy about making pho that tastes like beef, Pho Bang always hits the spot. Even if I order a bowl of vermicelli noodles with beef or a rice plate with pork chops, I can still order a small bowl of pho as a dollar appetizer. Pho Bang also hasn’t lost its touch in making spring and summer rolls.

Dim Sum GoGo

5 East Broadway between Catherine Street and Chatham Square
212/732.0797
about $60 for two, without drinks, without tip

Probably the funkiest decor in all of Chinatown–Funky Broome tried but they have since closed–Dim Sum GoGo is the brainchild of a French American food writer and a Hong Kong chef. The futuristic furniture and splashes of red are effective to the visitors afraid of the rest of Chinatown; not too ethnic and very modern. The dim sum platter is the safest bet if you’re one of them. On weekends, come before noon or else you’ll end up waiting in line behind tourists. Don’t try to get the table by the window on the second floor if your group is less than four. The surly old Chinese man will only grumble and insist on the table away from the window anyway. Some things you just can’t change.

Nha Hang

73 Mulberry Street on Baxter
212/233.8988
about $25 for two, without drinks, without tip

Smaller bowls of pho and vermicelli noodles but still satisfying. The green papaya salad is one of my favorites even at $9.50. The service is quick and like the rest of Chinatown, impersonal. When all you want is a quick lunch, Nha Hang is a good pick.