Category: New York Restaurant Reviews

New York City Restaurant Reviews

Esca

402 West 43rd Street off Ninth Avenue
212/564.7272
about $700 for four, with a lot of drinks, with tip
♥ ♥ ♥

Some friends I met while traveling in Ireland were in town. Remembering how much we all liked our seafood while we were traveling, I booked a table for four at Esca. At least two people are required to order the tasting menu per table, so my companions opted for that while I ordered the crudo appetizer, or tasting portions of raw seafood: uni served on its shell, an oyster, scallops with chervil, razor clams with chilis and hamachi with scallions. I’ve never had seafood worshipped this way. I salivated over the carpaccio yellowfin tuna and the linguine with mahogany clams and pancetta. The shrimps with caper and thyme vinaigrette, the squid-ink spaghetti with cuttlefish and the striped bass with caramelized apples were all delicious. The Maine halibut was a little bland if not eaten with the burdock root and black trumpet mushrooms, but the scallops were perfectly seared. I loved the warm fruit turnover and the raspberry ice cream for dessert. Unfortunately, I could not find room in my stomach to accommodate the creme brulée.

There was no Guiness beer but there were plenty of other wee-drinks: a bottle of Marchese di Gresy, another bottle of Moscato D’Asti and yet another bottle from Piemonte for dessert. Champagne, vodka and gin and tonics were also ordered several times before the main courses were served. Esca, which means bait in Italian, is a great place for groups–just don’t bring Irish friends who can outdrink you.

Related post/s:
It’s not surprising that Esca includes Mario Batali and Joseph Bastianich
Seafood worship?

Babbo Ristorante e Enoteca

110 Waverly Place between MacDougal and Sixth
212/777.0303
about $200 for two, with a few drinks, with tip
♥ ♥ ♥ ♥

Our first time at Babbo, we went all out, asked questions about never-heard words written on the menu (braciole! francobolli! scottadita!) and picked out a bottle of red wine to match. I started with spicy lamb tartare with mint crostini and a quail egg in the middle. It killed me.
The boy chose the grilled octopus with “borlotti marinati” and spicy limoncello vinaigrette. You know how octopus can be chewy sometimes even in the best Japanese restaurants? This was perfectly tender.

For primi, I had the one-pound lobster with spicy budding chives, sweet garlic and what seemed to be four pounds of spaghettini. The boy opted for beef cheek ravioli with crushed squab liver and black truffles. I was so full after all that, sharing the secondi became a good call: guinea hen braciole with favas and pecorino.

Ufortunately, we had to draw the line on desserts. There was just no way I could have squeezed in another bite but our waiter gave us complementary cookies anyway.

On our second visit, we managed to control ourselves. We decided to share a lot of the offal starters since we knew the pasta dishes were too much for us. We finished the night with four of the best dishes we’ve eaten in our lives:

Warm lamb’s tongue vinaigrette with chanterelles, pecorino Toscano and a 3-minute egg
Calf’s brain “Francobolli” with lemon and sage
Goose liver ravioli with balsamic vinegar and brown butter
Fennel-dusted sweetbreads with sweet and sour onions, duck bacon and membrillo vinegar

Sharing the appetizers was definitely the way to go. It allowed us to get a better sense of the Mario Batali behind Babbo.

Jing Fong

20 Elizabeth Street between Canal and Bayard
212/964.5256
about $60 for two, without drinks, without tip
♥ ♥

You can’t miss Jing Fong with its shopping mall-style escalators. Sunday is the best day to go for dim sum to experience just one Chinese tradition in the middle of Elizabeth Street. There’s a lady at the bottom of the escalators who screams into a microphone to call out people’s parties. Upstairs is like a madhouse bingo hall. A true red and gold banquet awaits guests and round tables are shared with strangers. Waiters push rolling food carts around so you can stop them and peek at the small dim sum dishes. A lot of them don’t speak English; they just tell you the Chinese word for a dish over and over, hoping you’d back down and stop asking.

My only advice is to try whatever looks interesting and skip the mixed fried rice you usually end up getting from a Chinese takeout. I never know the names of my favorite dishes but I go for a lot of shumais and dumplings when I’m with friends who just want the familiar, or else I go for chicken feet and snails when I’m with dim sum regulars. There is also a long table up front so you can pick other hot dishes not available in the rolling carts. If you feel more comfortable ordering from an English menu, they have it available for dishes served in larger portions.

Hanbat

53 West 35th Street between Fifth and Sixth
212/629.5588
about $30 for two, with two drinks, without tip
♥ ♥ ♥

If you tell any New Yorker Korean that you like Hanbat, they’ll tell you that it’s “peasant food” because their vegetables are traditionally from the mountains of Korea. I love the bibimbap, or mixed meal, which is a large bowl of rice topped with different kinds of root vegetables, shredded beef and fried egg, all brought together with gochujang or chili pepper paste. It can be served either hot or cold. I prefer it hot because I love watching the egg cook on top of the newly-cooked rice. My tongue burns every time I try to eat the first few spoonfuls but I can’t help myself from digging in.

Peasant food has never been this good.

Lure Fish and Raw Bar

142 Mercer Street on Prince
212/431.7676
about $150 for two, with two drinks, with tip
♥ ♥ ♥

There are nights in New York City when you become thankful for the people you know. I was very thankful this one summer night when the manager and sommelier of Lure invited a friend of mine to a menu tasting before their grand opening. I was even more thankful when my friend asked me to tag along. Lure is the latest restaurant to occupy the coveted space under the Prada store in SoHo, replacing the mediocre, orange-themed Canteen.

The yacht setting of the restaurant is new and very sleek, even people peeked and waved at us through the portholes from street-level. There are intimate booths with white leather seats and less private tables for smaller groups. The floor is immaculately shiny to mimic a ship’s deck. In the back is the raw and shellfish bar with the freshest sea creatures waiting to be eaten. The design of the space is so well done that even if you do not like maritime decor, you’ll fall in love with Lure. Separate rooms are available to rent if you want to throw a private party.

With a bottle of Burgundy, we had the following:

1. Arctic Char, Trout Roe, Creamy Horseradish and Dill

2. Coho Salmon, Pickled Japanese Cucumbers and Basil-Soy Tea
3. Toro, Fresh Wasabi and Black Olive Oil

4. Sea Scallops, Grated Scallion, Radish and Ginger Marinade

5. Black Sea Bass, Plum Wine Vinegar Gelee, Julienned Ginger and Jicama
6. Fluke, Cherry Tomatoes, Shallot

7. Yellowfin Tuna, Pickled Chilis, Olive Oil Brulee

8. six pieces of Blue Point Oysters
9. six pieces of Malpeque Oysters
10. Clam Chowder with Smoked Bacon
11. Grilled Swordfish, Soy-Ginger Marinade, Tomato Salad

12. Steamed Black Cod, Sake, Miso, Mushrooms

13. Crab Cakes with Mango, Yuzu and Fennel
14. Tempura Shrimp, Preserved Blackbean Mayonnaise and Lime
15. Peach Crisp
16. Warm Chocolate Cake