Category: SoHo

Reviews of SoHo Restaurants

Peasant

194 Elizabeth Street between Prince and Spring, New York City
212/965.9511
about $150 for two, with two drinks, without tip
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It’s hard to convince me to try a restaurant dubbed “Best Place to Impress a First Date” but after walking by Peasant one afternoon, I thought of it as the best place to treat my special someone to dinner. The first thing you see as soon as you walk in is the fire from the brick oven in the back where they cook all their Italian fare the traditional way. The dark wood gives the restaurant a rustic feel, but the aluminum chairs add a touch of modernity.

We split the baked scallops topped with breadcrumbs and the octopus in vinaigrette. The beet and mixed greens salad was excellent. We like it when the waitstaff gives us some time in between courses, but Peasant stretched it a bit too long. The appetizers settled in our stomachs, that by the time the boy’s squab was served, we were already full. We started to slice the bird but had to send it back because it was too rare. Maybe the cooks in the back need more light than the brick oven provides. I also had to hold up a candle to see what kind of beans arrived on our table–fava–and what mushrooms smelled so good–porcini–with my sweetbreads. I’ve never had sweetbreads as a main course before but if there’s a restaurant that takes everything to the max, Peasant is it.

For dessert, we wished for the peach tart topped with hazelnut ice cream but decided to skip it after we saw that it was more that the size of a big slice. I appreciate big portions for the amount of money they charge, but there are times when I’d prefer a smaller plate rather than a gluttonous one. Fortunately, a smaller space in the basement offers smaller plates.

Lure Fish and Raw Bar

142 Mercer Street on Prince
212/431.7676
about $150 for two, with two drinks, with tip
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There are nights in New York City when you become thankful for the people you know. I was very thankful this one summer night when the manager and sommelier of Lure invited a friend of mine to a menu tasting before their grand opening. I was even more thankful when my friend asked me to tag along. Lure is the latest restaurant to occupy the coveted space under the Prada store in SoHo, replacing the mediocre, orange-themed Canteen.

The yacht setting of the restaurant is new and very sleek, even people peeked and waved at us through the portholes from street-level. There are intimate booths with white leather seats and less private tables for smaller groups. The floor is immaculately shiny to mimic a ship’s deck. In the back is the raw and shellfish bar with the freshest sea creatures waiting to be eaten. The design of the space is so well done that even if you do not like maritime decor, you’ll fall in love with Lure. Separate rooms are available to rent if you want to throw a private party.

With a bottle of Burgundy, we had the following:

1. Arctic Char, Trout Roe, Creamy Horseradish and Dill

2. Coho Salmon, Pickled Japanese Cucumbers and Basil-Soy Tea
3. Toro, Fresh Wasabi and Black Olive Oil

4. Sea Scallops, Grated Scallion, Radish and Ginger Marinade

5. Black Sea Bass, Plum Wine Vinegar Gelee, Julienned Ginger and Jicama
6. Fluke, Cherry Tomatoes, Shallot

7. Yellowfin Tuna, Pickled Chilis, Olive Oil Brulee

8. six pieces of Blue Point Oysters
9. six pieces of Malpeque Oysters
10. Clam Chowder with Smoked Bacon
11. Grilled Swordfish, Soy-Ginger Marinade, Tomato Salad

12. Steamed Black Cod, Sake, Miso, Mushrooms

13. Crab Cakes with Mango, Yuzu and Fennel
14. Tempura Shrimp, Preserved Blackbean Mayonnaise and Lime
15. Peach Crisp
16. Warm Chocolate Cake

Honmura An

170 Mercer Street off Houston
212/334.5253
about $125 for two, with two drinks, without tip
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Updated, 2007: Honmura An is now closed.

When it’s cold outside, all I want is a hot bowl of soba. When I have money, Honmura An is always my first pick. It’s one of the few places in New York City that still makes its own soba. If you come at the right time during the week, you can watch one of the Japanese guys cut the buckwheat into single noodles in the back of the restaurant. It’s pretty cool to watch the precision involved in soba-making.

If you go on a Saturday, several limos pull up outside dropping off well-dressed Japanese people for brunch. Even when it’s packed inside, the cherry blossoms and the clean lines of its furniture design provide a haven from busy Houston Street. The dinner menu is a little more pricey and a $50 tasting menu requires at least two people to order per table. I usually order the nameko mushroom hot soba with an avocado or salmon salad to start. Whatever I’m in the mood for, I end my meal with their homemade green tea ice cream.

Snack

105 Thompson between Prince and Spring Streets
212/925.1040
about $60 for two for dinner or $15 for one during lunch, with drinks, with tip
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At least once a month, I get a craving for Snack’s artichoke chicken salad. A big bowl of potatoes, butter beans, tomatoes, string beans and chicken are tossed with black olive vinaigrette. If I’m in the mood for braised lamb without the heavy sauce, I order their braised lamb sandwich with tomatoes and roasted red onions with tomato aioli and arugula on ciabata bread. The bulgur wheat salad is also delicious with mint and walnuts in citrus vinaigrette. I’ve had better houmus and pita bread elsewhere but I doubt any other Greek restaurant, Queens included, can beat their spanakopitakia or spinach triangles. The phyllo flakes off ever-so-lightly at each bite.

For dinner hours, the menu changes to include heftier items. When I visit, I always order the white anchovies and the octopus as appetizers. For main courses, I’ve enjoyed their vegetarian mousaka with eggplants, mushrooms and potatoes in creamy bechamel sauce. The braised lamb stifado smells really nice with currants and apricots while the keftedakia or veal meatballs are a treat with pine nuts.

Snack’s menu rarely changes, but with meals that are sure to please, I don’t see a reason why it should.