New York Restaurants by Area – Page 17 – Writing With My Mouth Full

Peter Luger

178 Broadway, right under the Williamsburg Bridge in Brooklyn
718/387-7400
about $350 for five, with a bottle of wine, with tip, cash only
♥ ♥

Our waiter spilled porterhouse juice all over my sister-in-law’s hat. She wasn’t wearing it at the time, but it still sucked when she realized it outside. It was windy and 30 degrees.

I’ve been to Peter Luger several times and like most New Yorkers, I go for the porterhouse and not for the service. Being old school is one thing but the restaurant staff can really use some manners. Our waiter was brash: he grunted and interrupted whenever we had a question and he splashed sauce and fat on our table whenever he served. The attitude could be part of the draw that makes Peter Luger “authentic”, but after paying over a thousand dollars the last six years, you’d think it would at least buy politeness.

The food also hasn’t changed. It’s still the best place to get porterhouse in New York City even though they push every customer to get more than they can eat. (We watch a group of four novices at the next table fall for their bit and order three steaks for two. Their bill was already guaranteed to be $240 before ordering any side dishes or wine.) The bacon is still to die for and the creamed spinach still a good match to a perfectly-cooked piece of meat.

Maybe when I return two years from now, I can finally tune the staff’s attitude out and just eat my steak in peace. For now though, one less heart from the last review.

Cafe Select

212 Lafayette Street off Kenmare
212/925.9322
$40 for two, with 2 drinks, without tip
♥ ♥

Everything Serge Becker touches turns into the next place-to-be. (You’ve seen La Esquina and The Box in the news, right?) A 1pm lunch date with my friend at the bar started gloomy: we were meeting to drown our sorrows about the grim economy and the prospect of losing our jobs. But by the time I was halfway through my Swiss Lagrein wine and he was done with his Stella beer, we were celebrating the fact that it’s still an incredible city to live in. People around us were drinking bottles and eating as if they have all the time in the world even though the giant Rolex clock above us ticked. (Hey, maybe they’ve lost their jobs already!) Sharply-dressed men waited for their equally beautiful partners to show up. We heard French and some other indistinguishable language behind us; ah, must be Euros taking a break from shopping.

I opted for the comforting elbow pasta with ground beef in brown sauce and it came with applesauce on the side. It was weird, but if the Swiss say they go together, I believe them. It was an unusual combination I couldn’t stop eating. The bratwurst was smooth and the rösti, or Swiss potato pancake, added good texture.

I couldn’t help but love the red and white check table napkins. It’s only one of the details that make the place whole. A diner-style bar displays the ready-to-eat breakfast items like yogurt and muesli. The small room in the back seemed like the perfect place to rendezvous with someone while the chef’s table in the kitchen would be a good place to get some friends together. The dungeon-like storage room behind the kitchen includes a mezzanine you can rent for a private party–what New Yorker doesn’t like access to “secret” places?

Almond Restaurant

12 East 22nd Street
212/228.7557
$90 for two, with 2 glasses of wine, with tip
♥ ♥ ♥

We’ve driven by Almoncello on Montauk Highway only to stop at Townline BBQ for lunch instead. This summer I told myself, okay, I’ll definitely eat there next year. But now that their Manhattan branch has opened, I don’t have to keep empty promises anymore. Closer to me is homey French bistro food good enough for a no-hassle night out with friends.

After a stiff and stress-relieving dirty martini at the bar, my friend and I sat down and ravaged the appetizers list. We couldn’t get enough of the fruits de mer with curried mussels, octopus and a delicious scallop and fennel ceviche. For $15 it was a steal, though I would gladly give the rest up for more of the ceviche.

Almond excels at the duck confit. It was my favorite dish among the few that we ordered. The polenta ravioli and the mac and cheese were too rich for my taste, but that was probably because I was already at my limit after the frogs’ legs with the puff pastry. My friend, whom I convinced to eat frogs’ legs for the first time, loved them and went on raving about them to her husband when she got home.

For a last-minute decision to eat out in the Murray Hill area, I think Almond is an economical and good choice. I doubt that it will be as empty in the weeks to come.

Post to be updated as soon as my friend sends me the photos.

Talay Restaurant

701 West 135th Street and Twelfth Avenue
212/491.8303
$104 for two, with 3 drinks, without tip
♥ ♥

If anyone in the restaurant industry deserves a break, it’s King Phojanakong, owner and chef of Kuma Inn in the lower east side. I don’t know if it’s the Filipino-Thai upbringing that keeps him humble but I’m sure he’s worked hard enough to keep Kuma Inn as unpretentious as possible. I believe that it’s his time to shine with Talay, his new Asian-Latin restaurant in West Harlem with co-chef Phet Schwader.

They couldn’t have picked a better neighborhood, too. Harlem is going through some major changes and Talay joins the new Body Club next door and old favorites Dinosaur Bar-B-Que and Fairway Supermarket. Ignore the irritating name the real estate agents are trying to christen the area–ViVa for Viaduct Valley–and check out this micro-neighborhood as it transforms warehouses to nightclubs.

We visited during a more sane Sunday night and sat at the bar in front of the kitchen to watch all the action. The green papaya beef salad was delicious and only made me salivate for more food. We loved the pork sausage spring rolls as well. We also ordered the octopus salad, a dish that I think caters to the few uptowners who want to be more adventurous. Talay does it pretty well. The summer roll had more vermicelli noodles than vegetables, but they cleansed the palate just in time for our blackened ahi tuna dish. With all the flavorful tastes in our mouths, the ahi tuna came out bland in comparison–we should have skipped it or at least ordered it first. There are some Latin-influenced dishes so as not to alienate the targeted crowd–arroz Valencia, ropa vieja, bistek churrasco–but the Asian dishes stick out and are among the tastiest.

After dinner, I asked the maitre ‘d to walk me upstairs to check out the party space. Talay is making up for what Kuma Inn lacked in space. There is bottle service and curtains can be drawn to keep a room more private–just the way the uptown and New Jersey crowd coming from across the bridge like it. While I don’t think the downtown crowd will make the trek past 42nd Street, Talay is a good reason for the uptown crowd to stay uptown.

Per Se

4th floor of the Time Warner Center, 10 Columbus Circle at 60th Street
212/823.9335
$900 for two, with drinks, with extra tip apart from the included service fee
♥ ♥ ♥ ♥

As soon as our waiter brought out a footstool for my purse so that I didn’t have to put it down on the floor, I knew we were in for an experience. Small gestures like that from the staff make Per Se, and any of Thomas Keller’s restaurants, stand out. Everyone around us was older or part of a group that discussed important business, but we were treated like we belonged there. We never felt awkward–except when we tried to push those gorgeous blue doors open–nor rushed. Our waiters and servers weren’t snotty and our sommelier was helpful in suggesting wines to match our dishes without necessarily pushing for the bottles that were out of our budget.

I was treating the Dr. for his birthday and when I made the reservation exactly two months ago, they had asked me if there was an occasion. That night, they included a “Happy Birthday [Dr.]” right below the date on our menus. It was a simple gesture, but it made the celebrant very appreciative. When desserts were brought out, a lit candle was placed on his and they joked about singing a capella. (For a few seconds, I really thought they would.) Upon our leaving, another staff member was waiting for us at the door with our coats, our mignardises packed in a silver box and a folder with copies of our menu. After almost five hours of being treated like royalty, we stepped out of Per Se’s luxurious setting and back into the concrete jungle that is New York City. I’m grateful for those few hours.

My Tasting of Vegetables:

“Mousse de Topinambours” – Toasted Hazelnuts, Lingonberries and Garden Tarragon

“Dégustation de Petits Oignons” – Arugula and Smoked Onion Purée

Tempura of White Maitake Mushroom – Persian Cucumbers, Confit of Meyer Lemons and Mitsuba with Umeboshi Dressing

Slow Poached Squire Hill Farm’s Ameraucana Hen Egg – Brioche Croûton, “Lentilles du Puy”, Root Vegetable “Matignon” and Watercress Laves with “Beurre Rouge”

Belgian Endive “En Fuille de Pomme de Terre” – Shaved Burgundy Truffles, Red Endive and Red Ribbon Sorrel with Black Winter Truffle Coulis

“Salvatore Brooklyn Ricotta” Agnolotti – Flowering Quince, Caramelized Fall Squash and Pumpkin Seed Oil with Brown Butter Emulsion

“Roquefort Le Vieux Berger” – Tellicherry Pepper “Sablé”, Marinated Purple Top Turnips, Candied Walnuts and Garden Chervil with Medjool Date Vinaigrette

Pink Champagne Granité – Passion Fruit Pudding

Black Currant Cobbler – Butter “Croustillant”, Black Currant Compote and Diane St. Clair’s Buttermilk Sherbet

The Dr.’s Tasting Menu:

“Oysters and Pearls” – “Sabayon” of Pearl Tapioca with Island Creek Oysters and Sterling White Sturgeon Caviar

“Torchon” of Élevages Périgord Moulard Duck Foie Gras – Oatmeal Crumble, Oregon Huckleberries, Crosnes, Red Ribbon Sorrel and Blis Maple Gelée with Toasted Brioche

Crispy Skin Fillet of Red Snapper – “Ratatouille”, Globe Artichokes and Parsley Chips with Niçoise Vinaigrette

Pan Roasted Maine Sea Scallop – Garnet Yam Purée, Glazed Chestnuts and Arugula Leaves with Pomegranate Syrup

“Boudin Blanc Grillé” – Smoked Squire Hill Farm’s Ameraucana Hen Egg Emulsion, Haricots Verts and Frisée with Veal Sauce

Elysian Fields Farm’s “Selle D’agneau Rôtie Entière” – Matsutake Mushrooms, Fennel Bulb and Greenmarket Carrots with Lamb Jus

Di Bruno Brothers’ “Burrata” – “Croûton de Pain de Campagne”, Flageolet Beans and Petit Basil with Pickled Onions

“Banoffee” – Devil’s Food Cake, Chocolate “Marquise” and Malt Mousse with Banana-Crème Fraîche Sherbet

“Pomme-Beurre Noisette” – “Confiture” of Granny Smith Apple, “Financier” and Tahitian “Bavarois” with “Glace au Beurre Noisette”